Puerto Rico. A small island nation that conjures up the image of: tropical turquoise seas; warm yellow sun; crisp white cruise ships of tourists flooding into the bustling market-square; and a relaxing paradise full of culture, colour, and history. It is a popular destination of travel for many as the nation is an island territory of the United States, the local currency is the US $ and the country is officially bilingual meaning language barriers are never an issue.
Yet, a recent visit to Puerto Rico would reveal another side to this beautiful country. As you walk the streets of Old San Juan you are immediately struck by the vibrancy of the painted buildings. Each house is a perfect bright solid block of colour that sharply contrasts against its neighbour. The perfect place to take photos; the perfect tranquillity of a coastal town; and the perfect postcard to send to your loved ones.
But, maybe too perfect? How can such an old and historic place have such flawless features? The truth is, it doesn’t.
A closer look at the landscape and architecture would reveal a different side to the city. Behind the beautiful vibrancy remains a nation that is still on the mend. Broken and abandoned homes which have been faded and aged by the forces of nature stand tall against the multi-coloured doll-houses; ruined city walls crumble around the island; piles of rock fragments cluster along the coastline; bollards lay horizontal instead of upright on the road; and gravestones are anchored at 45 degrees to the ground. The colourful perfectly painted streets are perfect only because they have only recently been repainted.
This is the legacy of Hurricane Maria.
In September 2017, a deadly category 5 storm tore through the island causing a catastrophic humanitarian crisis with an estimated death toll in Puerto Rico of roughly 3000. Electricity was cut off throughout the island, trees were uprooted, floods ravaged across the old streets, and the old tin roofs of houses were blown off. It was the worst storm to hit the nation in over 80 years. There are signs up around the town of San Juan apologising for the state of the architecture and promising that in the near future repairs will be made.
However, this windswept legacy of the country only adds to its beauty. Progress is slow, but steady, and 18 months later, business is leisurely getting back to usual. Shops are open, hostels are full, tourists litter the streets, the nightlife is busy, and the beaches are filled with BBQs and a variety of upbeat Spanish music. The iconic city forts (the Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo San Cristobal) are breath-taking to walk along. Rich in colonial history these 18th century forts provide the perfect place to spend the day exploring and learning about the country. Climbing to the top one realises the great power of the wind on this small island nation, so much so, we counted children flying over 50 kites along the walls.
Travelling to Puerto Rico is something that I would thoroughly recommend. It is such a unique nation filled with culture, coffee, history, water sports, and amazing food. The streets are extremely safe and clean, police officers are stationed at nearly every corner, ATMs are present on most roads, and the country is a popular destination for solo travellers. At first glance you would not know of the devastation of 2017.
It is always best to check prior to booking any holidays for up to date information on any safety hazards (such as weather warnings) for all your travelling plans. For UK nationals travelling to Puerto Rico only an ESTA is required. So, give it a look, and book Puerto Rico as your next holiday destination.
