Gorgeously colored from ruby to pinky-red with blushes of celery green that take on a satiny-sheen in the light, rhubarb is soooo pretty. It’s also delightfully odd. Super-tart rhubarb is actually a perennial vegetable, not a fruit, in spite of being called the “pie plant” in 19th century cookbooks. It comes in season in April, peaks in June, and if you’re lucky, hangs around in the home garden until September. It has a very distinct aroma—sharp, sort of vegetal funky—and if I had to put a color to the scent: red-brown. And although it very-much resembles celery (with its fleshy stalks and “strings,”) unlike celery, rhubarb cooks VERY quickly, and the strings entirely disappear, making it a lovely choice for topping this sweet-tart of an upside-down cake.
Upside-down cakes fill my vintage community cookbook collection, favored, I think, for their buttery-good rusticity, and because they can be beautiful without the need for frosting. But some of these vintage versions are upside-“downers” including cake batters that are less-than wonderful, and toppings that dip below rustic to become somewhat unappealing. With this up-do, I’ve tried to raise the bar to produce a one-pan cake you’ll be proud to serve.
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Rhubarb Upside-Down Cake
